Easy Start

The Easy-Start system came standard on newer bikes and can be retrofitted to older bikes. See the Factory Documentation page for the retrofit instructions. With Easy-Start, momentarily pressing the kill button prior to a starting attempt applies power to the ECU for 30 seconds. Note that the fuel pump is not powered, and the only place to get the energy to do so is by kicking.

The retrofit kit connects to a modified wiring harness via a 6-pin connector and to the kill button via a 2-pin connector. The unit contains a large filter capacitor (10,000 uF), a 1.2-volt nickel-metal hydride AAA cell, a DC-to-DC converter, and some timing/logic circuitry. The DC-to-DC converter boosts the Ni-MH cell's output to 10 volts to power the ECU.

My original Kokusan Denki capacitor measured 23,000 uF (probably 22,000 uF rating). This was connected in parallel with the +12V rectifier/regulator which supplied power to the ECU, injector, and fan. The later wiring harness was modified to connect the Easy-Start capacitor directly to the fan. (Thus, it is only connected to the 12 VDC power when the fan is energized.)

Pressing the kill button causes the Easy-Start's red/black wire to emit 10 VDC for 30 seconds. My testing has revealed that the 30-second power interval is from the beginning of the button press (not the release). Pressing the kill button during the 30-second interval will not extend the interval. Also, note that keeping the kill button depressed will not allow the engine to start (this is as it should be because the kill action overrides).

Two of the six Easy-Start wires connect to the stator (fuel pump power). The “retrofit cable” does not have connections for the center two pins as these wires are not available in the 2011 - 2013 wiring harness. These wires are used to sense flywheel rotation, and thereby obviate pressing the kill button as a prelude to starting. OSSA calls this feature FWAC (flywheel armed condition).

To check if the Easy-Start is working properly, connect a voltmeter between the Red & Black wires at the 6-pin diagnostic connector. Momentarily press the kill button. You should see something close to 9 VDC for 30 seconds. If you do not, replace the 1.5V Ni-MH AAA cell inside the Easy-Start. Or simply remove the cell and charge it outside the bike. The bike's electrical system does recharge this cell at a trickle rate. But I believe that if the cell gets really low, the trickle charge becomes insufficient.

A recently-charged 1.5V Ni-MH AAA cell will produce about 1.35 - 1.40 volts and have an internal resistance of 30 - 40 milliohms.

Easy-Start with cover removed exposing replaceable AAA Nickle-Metal Hydride cell

Period starting assist modification recommended by OSSA

Period Easy Starting Mod

Prior to the introduction of Easy-Start, a period modification was to install a 9V battery in parallel on the +12V power rail through a momentary contact push button. I never tried this back in the day because I scoffed at the idea, saying it could not possibly power the fuel pump. I subsequently learned that “pre-powering” the fuel pump is not beneficial to starting and may even make it more difficult. This was probably factored into the original design choices and start-up fueling. The fuel pump is powered primarily via a separate stator winding.

The ECU draws about 66mA from the 9-volt alkaline battery.

When discharged at 100mA, an Alkaline battery will supply 300 – 400 mAh. This equates to an essentially unlimited number of 10- to 20-second starting attempts.

The wiring is shown for reference.